A table of reunion dinner is the most homesickness.

Original title: A table of reunion dinner is the most homesickness.

semi-fermented dough shape

Fried pile

Northeast new year’s eve dinner

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What does Chinese New Year mean to you? Is it a mouth-watering fried pile under hot oil years ago, or a bowl of sweet dumplings in the new fifteen years later? Is it the lingering firecrackers in my ears on New Year’s Eve, or the constant nagging of my mother for years? Are you happy to receive a red envelope, big or small, or are you happy to raise your glass and tell each other? The Year of the Dragon is just around the corner. Listen to the small editors talking about the customs of their hometown.

Text/Guangzhou Daily All Media Reporter Liang Qianwei, Lin Lin, Lin Jing, Wang Haoyu

Figure/Guangzhou Daily All-Media Reporter Wang Haoyu, Li Bo and Liao Xueming

Video/Guangzhou Daily All-Media Reporter Cao Teng and Zhang Yu

Column Coordinator/Guangzhou Daily All-Media Reporter Cao Teng and Zhang Yu

It’s time for every household to pack oil angle fried piles again.

When it comes to the taste of Guangzhou, the word "eat" is indispensable, and most of them are "meaningful". Years ago, when the wok was opened, every household fried piles, oil angle, scattered eggs and dates with a smile, which meant that the fire would fry oil and the descendants would prosper. On the eve of New Year’s Eve, there must be "Italian dishes" on the table: lucky strike with red roast suckling pig, steamed fish with original strips, lettuce with oyster sauce, and fat geese full of gold and silver … On the Lantern Festival, a bowl of glutinous rice balls is essential. If you don’t eat it, it will lose some flavor this year.

Many Chinese New Year foods are not easy to make. Take the seemingly simple "sugar ring" as an example. Although the whole process is just "take a piece of noodles and fry them"-this piece of noodles is first made of glutinous rice, sticky rice and clear water. After kneading, it is divided into small pieces and boiled in boiling water. Then take the rice flour and sugar to mix, knead it into dough, press it into sugar rings, and fry it with low fire before you can eat it.

Being oil angle is more troublesome. When I was a child, when I was a oil angle, I often needed my whole family to go out. One person makes skin: one layer of "oil" skin and two layers of "water" skin, which are stacked together and rolled repeatedly to ensure the success of "crisping". At the same time, another person is responsible for preparing the stuffing: peanuts are ground, sesame seeds are undressed, and sugar is mixed. All the fillings must be fried first, and then they will be delicious. Oil should be prepared before oil angle is wrapped and fried. Vegetable oil is not as fragrant as lard. Therefore, people who pay attention to it will buy fat one day in advance, wash and cut it, and it will take a lot of effort. However, just because the process is complicated and requires everyone’s concerted efforts, it will also increase a lot of fun.

Whenever Chinese New Year food is made, the corridor is often full of excitement. Neighborhood, visit each other to help, exchange production experience, many people simply open the door, convenient for neighbors in and out-the owner wrapped oil angle and took it to the west to fry; Water chestnut cake, who steamed the radish cake across the hall, will send it to you conveniently, so everyone can have a taste.

In this tedious process, the taste of the year has gained a sense of ceremony; In the sound of blessing from door to door, it is infected with human feelings. So year after year, connected to the blood, connected to the tip of the tongue. (Liang Qianwei/Guangzhou, Guangdong)

The taste of the year is mom’s hot meal and nagging.

On New Year’s Eve, the family drove to the old house in the countryside. Under the big banyan tree at the entrance of the village, there was a piece of red firecrackers, bypassing the crowds gathering everywhere and crossing a long ditch, which was the old house. There are three small houses and a long narrow alley, and my father’s brothers also come back with their families. The houses and alleys are full of people: daughters-in-law who go in and out of the kitchen to kill geese and marinate them, brothers and visiting villagers who have tea and chat in the hall, children who are running around everywhere, firecrackers sounded from time to time, and occasionally there was a choking smell of gunpowder, mixed with the mouth-watering smell of brine.

The night of New Year’s Eve is getting deeper and deeper in the sound of firecrackers. I sleep on the pillow with new clothes neatly placed next to me until I am awakened by the sound of firecrackers in the alley-the New Year is here! Put on new clothes, and be careful not to step on the threshold. After you walk out of the door, you should say "Happy New Year" to all the busy adults one by one. After you get the red envelope, you should give it to your mother, and her mother will increase the gift carefully and politely. This is a day when mothers have no time to take care of themselves. Partners can run wildly in the countryside. When they hear that there is a God Tournament or an English Song Team in the village, they rush to join in the fun. The children know that even if this day is too naughty, they will not pull down their faces and punish them for the sake of face and good luck, and I am too happy to think about whether there will be second guessed.

At that time, the year was a great event, a family reunion, a summary of the year and the beginning of a new year. The taste of the year was a familiar fragrance, a worry-free and a joy. Now, 2008 is a busy year, pulling my luggage home, hugging my mother’s shoulder who came out early to wait at the gate of the community, and saying, "Don’t come out when it’s cold." "The luggage is not heavy, I have the strength." On TV, watching the lively and gratifying customs around Chaoshan, the taste of the year is my mother’s hot meals and nagging, which has accumulated a year of fatigue and grievances and disappeared without a trace. (Lin Lin/Chaozhou, Guangdong)

Eating a table of "reunion dinner" has a special satisfaction.

The Spring Festival is a rare holiday for people to work hard for a year, so it is more grand. As soon as we entered the twelfth lunar month, people began to prepare for the New Year. Towns and villages organize rehearsals for cultural programs, tie up lamps, practice folk songs and dances such as dragon lanterns, dry boats, bamboo horses and cars. Every household buys new year’s goods, clothes, utensils, preserved preserved chicken, duck, fish and other preserved foods. On the 25th and 26th of the twelfth lunar month, steamed buns, steamed buns, fried steamed buns and all kinds of vegetables began to be steamed. However, frying food cannot be carried out on the 28th of the twelfth lunar month, and there is a taboo of "frying seven without frying eight".

New Year’s Eve falls on the 30th day of the twelfth lunar month. On this afternoon, every household should stick up the door gods and Spring Festival couplets to welcome the kitchen god. On New Year’s Eve, every family hangs red lights, sets off firecrackers, lights candles, burns incense and paper, and worships ancestors and gods. The whole family get together and have dinner together, which is called "Group Year", also called "Group Year Dinner". People in Zaoyang are also particular about eating New Year’s Eve. Usually, a few cold dishes are served first, such as pork liver, hoof flower, preserved beef, preserved pork belly, preserved sausage, etc. Of course, cold dishes will not be eaten directly, and people will dip in a bowl of balsamic vinegar with chives and sesame oil, which is especially delicious. Cold dishes are hot dishes, generally including braised fish, red-cooked chicken, meatballs and lotus root clips. Hot dishes are steamed vegetables, generally steamed fish, steamed ribs, steamed lotus roots and so on. After the steamed vegetables are served, it is soup. There is a unique soup in Zaoyang called sour soup, which contains day lily, fungus, sliced meat, lotus root, etc. When these samples are cooked together and vinegar is added, it smells sour and fragrant, which makes people particularly appetizing. Soup is the staple food. Generally, fried buns, meat buns, etc. are served first. Of course, jiaozi is the finale. Eating this table of "reunion dinner" really gives people a special satisfaction. During the "Year of the League", farmers should give their cows a bowl of rice to show their respect for their hard work. Therefore, there is an agricultural proverb that "hit a thousand, scold ten thousand, and eat a bowl of rice at thirty nights". On New Year’s Eve, the whole family stays up all night, chatting and entertaining, and stays up all night, which is called "keeping the old age". (Lin Jing/Zaoyang, Hubei)

The custom in Northeast China is to eat jiaozi on New Year’s Eve.

It’s cold in winter in Northeast China, and there is no worry about meat spoilage. Before the Spring Festival, every family will buy a lot of pork and beef, soak the bought meat in cold water, put large pieces of meat into a cauldron, pour in chopped star anise, fragrant leaves and cinnamon, add rock sugar, cooking wine and soy sauce, and add some soybean sauce in Northeast China. Then simmer slowly, and the meat with sauce can be sliced directly and served. There is another way to eat it. Slice the sauced pork elbow into large pieces, sprinkle some dried dried seaweed and chopped green onion, pour some good soy sauce on it, and steam it on the drawer until the fat is slightly melted, which is a good dish to accompany wine.

The New Year’s Eve dinner is the most grand, and there must be a fish in this meal, either braised or simmered, which means "more than one year". Stewed mushrooms with chicken is also a good dish. Pay attention to killing live chickens now, cut the whole chicken into pieces and stew with good hazelnuts, so that the meat is delicious and the soup is fresh. Some people will also stew oyster meat, chicken, sea cucumber, scallops, prawns, sauerkraut and pork belly in one pot. It is a custom in Northeast China to eat jiaozi on the night of New Year’s Eve, and the Manchu people call it "boiled cake". Bao jiaozi is a big job, and the whole family should play together. There are two kinds of classic jiaozi in Northeast China, one is jiaozi with three fresh fillings, with leeks, pork and shrimps as fillings, and the other is pork stuffing with sauerkraut. It is the custom in Northeast China to wrap a large number of jiaozi in New Year’s Eve, and put the extra raw jiaozi on the "curtain" made of sorghum stalks, and cook it as you eat.

Red envelopes are given to the elders at home, especially hundreds of thousands of dollars, to show respect for the elderly. Setting off firecrackers and fireworks is more interesting. At about nine o’clock in the evening, a group of "half-grown boys" led a large group of children and went out with firecrackers, flowers and guns on their shoulders. Pick a good place during the day, then clean up the snow, pile it into several large snowdrifts, and insert fireworks into the snowdrifts to light it. Amid cheers and laughter, colorful fireworks lit up the velvet dark night sky. (Wang Haoyu/Shenyang, Liaoning) (Liang Qianwei, Lin Lin, Lin Jing, Wang Haoyu)